Tian'anmen Square October 5, 2006

Although Americans associate Tian'anmen Square with political protest, that is not its major connotation for the Chinese. During the National Holiday, beginning October 1, it is decorated with flowers arranged in patterns (the elaborate designs would remind you a little of the floats at the Rose Parade) and the outlines of the massive government buildings on three sides (east, south, and west) are lit up at night. My husband Gary and son Matt are visiting and we arranged to arrive just before dark. Very few westerners were in the crowd, which meant that we really weren't sure what was going on, except to realize the crowd was filling in quickly in the area facing north, where Mao's famous portrait hangs on the southern end of the Forbidden City Palace. When completely full, Tian'anmen Square can hold a million people. Tonight there were perhaps a hundred thousand people there to see the flag lowered and watch the lights go on. The soldiers in charge of crowd control tried to use bullhorns to get people to sit so more could see, but most of the cheery throng, many of whom hoisted their children on their shoulders, stood on tiptoes to see soldiers trooping the colors and lowering the flag at sunset. The children bobbing above the massive group were entrusted with cameras, since they had the best view. In ancient days the Palace buildings of the Forbidden City were the highest point in Beijing. No more! The highways that ring the city in ever-expanding circles are lined with huge skyscrapers, more every day. The Insight Guide and other references will tell you that in imperial days the emperor was the only adult male (other than the castrated eunuchs) who could remain overnight, guaranteeing that the emperor would be the father of his wives' children. During Mao's era the Forbidden City was used by government officials. Today it is a tourist attraction, but still part of Beijing's geographic core and one few visitors ignore.